In Conversation with Anabela Gonçalves: Science-Driven Sustainability in Fashion

At Net Zero Compare, we are committed to exploring practical and innovative solutions that help businesses comply with sustainability regulations. In our interview series, we spoke with Anabela Gonçalves, a PhD candidate in Sustainable Energy Systems at the University of Lisbon, about her groundbreaking research on sustainability metrics in the fashion industry.

Maílis Carrilho (Net Zero Compare): Anabela, your career and academic research have focused on sustainability in fashion, a sector with significant environmental and social challenges. What motivated you to pursue this path?

Anabela Gonçalves (PhD Candidate): "My motivation stems from a holistic understanding of sustainability challenges. Through my research, I have published articles that demonstrate my commitment to addressing sustainability issues in fashion. I’m particularly interested in developing objective metrics that can assess the environmental and social impacts of clothing production, aiming to bring scientific rigor and transparency to sustainability assessments."

Maílis Carrilho (Net Zero Compare): Could you tell us how you define sustainable fashion?

Anabela Gonçalves (PhD Candidate): "Sustainable fashion is much more than using eco-friendly materials. It’s a comprehensive approach that considers:

• Environmental footprint

• Social impacts

• Production transparency

• Full product life cycle

• Ethical manufacturing processes

• Product durability

My research introduces a comprehensive multicriteria model that evaluates sustainability through three essential pillars, with a key innovation being an A to E labelling system that helps consumers truly understand a garment's sustainability."

Maílis Carrilho (Net Zero Compare): What do you consider the main environmental and ethical challenges faced by the fashion industry?

Anabela Gonçalves (PhD Candidate): "The biggest challenges include the significant environmental footprint in textile production, low recyclability rates, reduced product durability leading to overconsumption, opaque supply chains, poor manufacturing conditions, and excessive waste generated by fast fashion cycles."

Maílis Carrilho (Net Zero Compare): You mentioned sustainable design projects in your research. Can you tell us more about them?

Anabela Gonçalves (PhD Candidate): "One of the main projects was a case study on a Portuguese cotton white T-shirt made with recycled fibber, published in a scientific journal. This research explored how recycled materials can significantly reduce environmental impact and create more sustainable fashion products. We also developed a comprehensive approach to sustainability evaluation, combining environmental, social, and durability assessments."

Maílis Carrilho (Net Zero Compare): Which sustainable materials or techniques do you consider most promising for the future?

Anabela Gonçalves (PhD Candidate: "Based on my research, I see great potential in:

• Advanced recycled fiber technologies

• Circular design principles

• Sophisticated life cycle assessment techniques

• Transparent supply chain technologies

• Innovative sustainability scoring methods".

Maílis Carrilho (Net Zero Compare): And what do you see as your role in the sustainability of the fashion industry in the future?

Anabela Gonçalves (PhD Candidate): "I see my role as a critical bridge between scientific research, business development, and sustainable innovation. By developing robust sustainability assessment methodologies, I aim to:

• Create effective sustainability assessment tools

• Help businesses implement more sustainable practices

• Increase transparency in fashion supply chains"

Maílis Carrilho (Net Zero Compare): How do you envision the future of sustainability in the fashion industry in the next few years?

Anabela Gonçalves (PhD Candidate): "In the next decade, I expect to see:

• Simpler but more comprehensive sustainability regulations

• Advanced recycling technologies;

• Increased consumer demand for transparency.

• An accelerated shift toward circular economy models.

• Greater integration of life cycle assessment in design.

My research directly addresses key consumer challenges, simplifying complex product certifications and identifying genuine sustainability beyond marketing claims. The development of a harmonized sustainability scoring system aims to empower consumers to make informed purchasing decisions aligned with their values, ultimately contributing to a more sustainable world."